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David @ Tokyo

Perspective from Japan on whaling and whale meat, a spot of gourmet news, and monthly updates of whale meat stockpile statistics

9/12/2006

 

Whaling : The market - Japanese perspective

For years and years the western media talked of whale meat being a delicacy only affordable to rich salarymen frequenting expensive sushi bars.

In more recent times, the message is confused. On one hand the western media still refers to whale meat "the delicacy", yet on the other hand there is a fresh line that tells western readers that no one wants to eat whale meat anymore, and grossly exaggerated claims of whale meat being turned into pet food abound.

The Asahi Shinbun ran a story over the weekend in Japanese, which I've translated below. There appears to be quite a gap in the understanding of the situation between local Japanese commentators and their western counterparts...
Whale meat abundance - Fisheries Agency in all out marketing effort, but prices high
2006 / 09 / 10 - 13:37

Whale meat is piling up. This is due to the drastic reduction in sales channels following the 1988 cessation in commercial whaling, in contrast to increasing supply from expanded research whaling programmes. As the Fisheries Agency looks to market the by-products as "health food" to schools and hospitals, schools and the restaurant industry have been seen introducing whale meat in lunches and new dishes. However, state circumstances require that the wholesale price of the meat, proceeds of which are required to cover the costs of research whaling, cannot be lowered, meaning that there is still a long way to go before prices are at a level where whale meat can easily be enjoyed at household dinner tables.

A base for the marketing of whales caught in the deep-seas is a room in a high class apartment building in Roppongi, Tokyo. "Geishoku Labo" is a new company established in May with the backing of the Fisheries Agency. Here at a large table in the reception room, customers are served with whale dishes.

"Everyone is surprised - 'Did it used to be so delicious?'" says company president Hiroshi Nakata. He says that whale meat is popular for it's low calories and cholesterol, with several retailers providing hospitals, schools and company cafeterias with lunches having displayed an interest.

A large cafeteria operator, Nikkoku Trust of Tokyo, has plans to use whale meat for it's special menu. "It should be popular amongst older people for it's nostalgic taste, and amongst younger people for it's intrigue. But it's still expensive so we can't use it as a regular menu item", said a company representative.

Behind the establishment of the new company is a "whale surplus".

With the expansion of research whaling, whale meat supply is now more than twice the level of a decade ago.

However, in the 20 years since the cessation in commercial whaling, the majority of marine product wholesalers have ceased to deal in whale meat, and thus distribution has not kept up with these increases.

Due to this, at the end of last year the whale meat stockpile stood at 3,900 tonnes, equivalent to annual supply. Next year with a further expansion in whaling, an additional 1,500 tonnes is forecast to be taken, bringing the total catch to 5,500 tonnes.

There are also moves towards utilizing the extra whale meat. In Wakayama, in an effort to pass on local traditions that flourished based around old style whaling, around 70% of primary schools will be including such menus as whale meat tatsuta-age in school lunches once every 2 months from this fiscal year. There is also an expansion in the capital region, and according to Tokyo's Japanese Whaling Association, approximately 3,500 schools nationwide now include whale meat in lunch menus.

Lucky Pierrot, a hamburger restaurant with shops in the area around the research whaling mother port of Hakodate, Hokkaido, has been selling whale meat hamburgers for 380 yen since last year. Amongst the 20 or so types of burger on offer, it is the 2nd most popular. "We only just turn a profit on it. But we hope to continue to support our food culture" says the managing director, Miku Oh.

However, despite these moves whale meat is not often seen on the street. Even where it is sold, 100 grams typically costs 450 yen. In a store specialising in marine products, popular bacon blocks were on sale at the high price of 2,500 yen per 100 grams.

Sales of the whale by-products go towards financing research whaling. The wholesale price of whale meat, set each year by the Fisheries Agency in order to cover the annual whaling costs of approximately 6 billion yen, is now half the price at it's peak, down to 2,000 yen with the increase in supply.

However, supply is still limited, and standard retail prices are 3 times as high as wholesale. The government is unable to lower the wholesale price due the requirement to cover whaling costs.

Nakata of Geishoku Labo smiles wryly, "The Fisheries Agency is telling me that 'we want you to sell the meat but don't overstimulate the market'". There is a desire to re-establish distribution channels with an eye to the resumption of commercial whaling, but even so for the foreseeable future, as supply is limited, there is a concern that too much demand would result in supply not keeping pace.

There are also concerns that overheated Japanese demand, which in the case of tuna beckoned over-exploitation overseas and illegal trafficking, could result in a deterioration of recovered whale resources. "We don't want to repeat the tuna mistakes, but we'd like to supply whale meat to households at at least prices comparative to tuna," says Hideki Moronuki of the Fisheries Agency's Whaling section.

(ends)
The Yomiuri Shinbun also ran another story about restaurants increasing the use of whale meat on their menus last week. I'll look to translate that sometime as well.

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Comments:
Just posting the Japanese here as well, for archival...

余るクジラ肉、水産庁が売り込み必死 でも価格は高く
2006年09月10日13時37分

 クジラの肉が余っている。調査捕鯨の拡大で供給量が増える一方、88年の商業捕鯨停止以来、販路がすっかり細ってしまったためだ。水産庁は「健康食」として学校や病院への売り込みをはかり、給食や新商品に取り入れる学校や外食産業も出始めた。でも、捕鯨費用確保のために卸値を一定より下げられない国側の事情もあり、家庭で気軽に味わえる価格にはまだ遠い。

遠洋で捕らえるクジラを売り込む拠点が、東京・六本木の高級マンションの一室にある。水産庁の後押しで5月に設立された新会社「鯨食ラボ」。客間の大きなテーブルでは、営業先を招いてクジラ料理をふるまう。

 「みなさん『こんなにおいしかったっけ』と驚きます」と中田博・同社代表。低カロリー、低コレステロールがうけ、病院や学校、社員食堂に納める給食業者数社が関心を示しているという。

 食堂運営大手の「ニッコクトラスト」(東京)は特別メニューとして鯨肉を使う予定だ。同社の担当者は「年配の方には懐かしく、若い方には意外性があるのでは。ただ、まだ高いので常時は使えない」と話す。

 新会社設立の背景には「クジラ余り」がある。

 調査捕鯨の拡大で鯨肉の供給は10年前の倍以上になった。

 しかし、商業捕鯨停止以降の約20年の間に、大半の水産卸が鯨肉を扱わなくなり、流通が追いつかなくなった。

 このため昨年末で年間供給量に匹敵する約3900トンの在庫が積み上がった。来年は捕鯨がさらに拡大され、今年より1500トン多い5500トンが捕獲される予定だ。

 余り気味の鯨肉を利用する動きも出てきた。和歌山県は古式捕鯨で栄えた地元の伝統を伝えようと、昨年度から小中学校の約7割で2カ月に1回程度、給食にクジラの竜田揚げなどを出している。首都圏などでも広がり、日本捕鯨協会(東京)によると、全国で約3500校が鯨肉給食を実施している。

 調査捕鯨の母港、北海道函館市周辺でハンバーガー店を展開する「ラッキーピエロ」は、昨年から鯨肉を使ったハンバーガーを380円で販売。約20種類のバーガーのうち2番目の人気だ。王未来(みく)専務は「採算ぎりぎり。食文化を応援する意味で続けたい」。

 ただ、そんな動きとは裏腹に鯨肉を街中で見ることは少ない。売られていても100グラムで450円はする。都内のある水産物専門店では、人気の高いベーコンブロックに100グラム2500円の高値がつけられている。

 捕獲されたクジラの売り上げは調査捕鯨の財源だ。年間約60億円の捕鯨費用がまかなえるよう水産庁が毎年決める鯨肉の卸値は、供給増でピークの半額以下の1キロ2000円ほどになった。

 しかし、まだ量が少なく、一般の店頭価格は卸値の3倍ほど。国側も捕鯨費用確保のため卸値は一定より下げられない。

 鯨食ラボの中田代表は「水産庁からは『市場を刺激しすぎないように売ってほしい』と言われている」と苦笑いする。商業捕鯨再開をにらんで流通を復活させたいが、再開しても当面、量が限られるため、人気が出すぎると供給が追いつかなくなる恐れがあるからだ。

 日本の需要過熱が海外での乱獲や密輸を招いたマグロのように、復活したクジラ資源が悪化する懸念もある。水産庁捕鯨班の諸貫秀樹課長補佐は「マグロの二の舞いは避けたいが、せめてマグロ並みの価格で家庭に提供したい」と話している。
 
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